To a layman, the term ‘face acids’ might sound scary, as it might make a person imagine a burning skin. But that’s not what we mean here. If done right, face acids shouldn't burn or irritate your skin.
Face acids are active ingredients typically found in skincare products like cleansers, serums, and moisturizers. They are known to brighten the skin, treat or prevent acne breakouts, and reduce wrinkles.
Face acids didn't emerge in recent times; rather, their use has only gotten significant scientific backing and has been made easier to incorporate into skincare routines. In the past, European women used stale wine containing malic acid and tartaric acid to cleanse their skin.
Acids in skincare are divided into two common types: alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs).
AHAs are commonly used for exfoliation and are also referred to as peeling agents, although the extent of their exfoliating or peeling power is dependent on the concentration of the acid and its pH.
Examples of AHAs are:
Some benefits of including AHAs in your skincare routine include:
BHAs are another group of face acids used for exfoliation. The difference between AHAs and BHAs lies in the fact that BHAs are oil-soluble. That is, they penetrate deeper into the skin to unclog pores, and this makes them ideal for people with acne-prone or oily skin.[6]
An example of BHAs is:
Some benefits of including BHAs in your skincare routine include:
This is a breakdown of how to use the acids mentioned above.
This acid can be used as a face wash, toner, serum, or mask. Here is how to use glycolic acid for an optimal result:
It is advisable to use this AHA during your evening/nighttime routine, as using it during the day can increase your skin's photosensitivity.
Here is how to use tartaric acid:
Here is how to use malic acid:
NOTE: It is best to avoid the area around the eyes when applying malic acid, as the skin in that area is super sensitive.
Here is a step-by-step process for using citric acid:
Use your lactic acid this way:
Hyaluronic acid is neither an AHA nor a BHA but a humectant, which means it has hydrating effects. Hyaluronic acid can be used together with AHAs or BHAs to help reduce irritation. It also gives the skin a plump, hydrated, and youthful look.
Like hyaluronic acid, kojic acid is neither an AHA nor a BHA but has potent brightening effects. If you have sensitive skin or are including AHAs or BHAs in your routine, it is advisable to avoid products containing this acid.
While many women swear by feminine washes, also known as intimate washes or vaginal cleansers, they might not be ideal for every woman. Using just simple, lukewarm water remains the safest and healthiest option for feminine hygiene.
Choosing the right acid for your skin is dependent on your skin type and the condition(s) you want to treat. And if you're not sure of your skin type, that'd be your cue to visit a dermatologist.
The table below shows a detailed overview of the ideal acid to use according to different skin types and conditions.
S/N | Ideal face acid | Skin types and conditions it's best suited for |
---|---|---|
1. | Glycolic acid | It is particularly safe for normal-to-dry and acne-prone skin. It is used to combat signs of aging, uneven skin tone, fade pigmentation, stimulate collagen production and reduce acne. And most glaringly, it exfoliates dead skin. |
2. | Tartaric acid | While it is a gentle exfoliator, if you have sensitive skin, it's best you use it less frequently. But is ideal for dry, normal, combination and oily skin types. It possesses antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and can be used to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. |
3. | Malic acid | It is great for all skin types, and for oily skin, helps to reduce oil production and excessive breakouts. It helps dry skin retain moisture and regular use can result in brighter and even-toned skin. |
4. | Citric acid | It is safe for all skin types but particularly beneficial for oily skin as it helps to reduce excessive oil production, exfoliates and brightens the skin. It also prevents premature aging. |
5. | Lactic acid | It is the safest option for sensitive skin due to how mild it is. It unblocks and cleanses pores, improves skin texture and reduces dark spots. |
6. | Salicylic acid | It is best suited for oily and acne-prone skin. Used to treat acne, blackheads and prevent future breakouts. |
It is obvious that the majority of these acids have a caveat for sensitive skin. Therefore, if you have sensitive skin and would like to incorporate acids into your routine, rather than going through multiple trials and errors, which can be a tad bit of time and money-wasting, consult a dermatologist to tailor the right products according to your skin needs.
AHAs and BHAs are safe to use as exfoliators but should be done with caution, especially if you're new to them or have sensitive skin.
Most importantly, visit a dermatologist before going for these acids with higher concentrations, and avoid or stop their use if you have open wounds, irritations, allergies, or are pregnant.
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