Face Acids: How To Use, Which Ones To Combine, Which Ones Ones Not Mix
Face acids have become increasingly popular in skincare, as they can work wonders for improving the appearance and health of our skin when used correctly. However, properly incorporating acids into your routine can be tricky, especially when combined.
Written By
Ifunanya UkwuomaMedical communicator | Alternative Health Writer
Key takeaways:
- There are different face acids, each with a unique use case. For instance, glycolic acid is an effective exfoliator that improves texture, reduces signs of aging, and fades discoloration, but it can be drying for sensitive skin.
- You need to be cautious when combining different face acids, as some may interact in ways that irritate the skin.
- Always choose face acids based on your specific skin type and concerns. You can start by matching the acid to your skin type - oily acne-prone skin does better with BHAs like salicylic acid, while dry skin responds better to AHAs like glycolic acid.
Face acids are a group of active ingredients used in skin care products to exfoliate and improve skin texture, tone, and appearance. The two main types are alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs).
AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid break down the bonds between skin cells to reveal a brighter, smoother complexion. BHAs like salicylic acid, on the other hand, are oil-soluble and excel at decongesting pores and treating blemishes. There are also other types of face acids, each with unique benefits for the skin.
Ready to learn how to incorporate face acids into your routine and to find out which combinations work well and which ones you'll want to avoid? Then keep scrolling!
What are the Common face acids used in skincare?
If you're dealing with acne, hyperpigmentation, or signs of aging, there's likely an acid that can help. However, with so many options available, knowing which ones to incorporate into your routine can be challenging. Here's a rundown of the most common face acids used in skincare:
1. Glycolic acid
Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. It breaks down the "glue" that holds dead skin cells together and allows them to be sloughed off more easily. This helps to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and fade dark spots and discoloration.
Glycolic acid is considered a highly effective exfoliating agent and is often recommended for people with normal to oily skin types. However, it can also be quite drying, so if you have dry or sensitive skin, you may want to start with lower concentrations and build up tolerance.
Possible side effects of this acid may include temporary stinging, redness, and increased sun sensitivity.
A good product containing glycolic acid is The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner.
2. Lactic acid
Lactic acid is a type of alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that is derived from sour milk and other fermented foods. As an AHA, lactic acid functions as a chemical exfoliant that helps to unclog pores and minimize their appearance.
What makes lactic acid unique is its larger molecular structure compared to other AHAs. This larger size means lactic acid is a gentler exfoliant, thus it is a great option for people with sensitive or dry skin types. Lactic acid is also known to have humectant properties as it helps to draw moisture into the skin and prevent transepidermal water loss.
The major benefits of incorporating lactic acid into a skincare routine include gentle yet effective exfoliation to improve skin texture and radiance, enhanced hydration, reduction in the appearance of fine lines, and fading of discoloration and dark spots.
With regular use, lactic acid can help promote a smoother, brighter, and more youthful-looking complexion. Paula’s Choice 6% Mandelic + 2% Lactic Acid AHA Liquid Exfoliant is an example of a great product containing lactic acid.
3. Salicylic acid
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) known for its effective exfoliating and pore-clearing properties. This allows it to penetrate deep into the pore lining to clear out excess sebum, bacteria, and other impurities.
Salicylic acid is particularly effective for treating acne, as it helps to unclog pores and prevent breakouts.
Beyond its blemish-fighting properties, salicylic acid can also help reduce the appearance of large pores, smooth, rough texture, and fade post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It's a great option for people with oily, acne-prone skin.
When using salicylic acid, it's important that you remain patient and consistent, as it may take several weeks before you see visible results. If you do not notice an improvement in your skin's condition after 6 weeks of regular use, it's recommended to consult a dermatologist.
The Cerave Renewing Salicylic Acid Cleanser helps to calm redness, swelling, and irritation related to acne.
4. Mandelic acid
Mandelic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from bitter almonds. It has a larger molecular size than other AHAs, which allows it to work its way into the skin at a slower, more gradual pace.
This gradual absorption is key because it means mandelic acid can provide that deep exfoliating action without being overly harsh or irritating - a common issue with some other AHAs, especially for people with sensitive skin.
Aside from its exfoliating benefits, mandelic acid also has natural antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. This may be particularly helpful for those dealing with acne, as it helps not only clear out breakouts but also soothe any associated redness and irritation.
A 2013 study found that mandelic acid chemical peels can help boost collagen production in the skin. Since collagen naturally declines with age, this effect from mandelic acid can soften the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines and make the skin look more youthful.
The Inkey List Mandelic Acid Treatment is a prime example of how Mandelic acid is effective in fighting visible signs of aging, dullness, and uneven texture.
5. Azelaic acid
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring chemical compound that is classified as a dicarboxylic acid, meaning it has two carboxylic acid groups. This natural substance acts as a skin-lightening or whitening agent by inhibiting the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase.
Azelaic acid has both anti-inflammatory and mild exfoliating properties, which make it useful for reducing inflammatory acne lesions and preventing future breakouts.
In addition to acne, azelaic acid may also help minimize age spots or melasma. It interferes with the production of melanin, the pigment that causes these discolorations.
Unlike some other acne and brightening ingredients, azelaic acid is ideal for most skin types, including sensitive ones. Studies suggest that topical azelaic acid products may help tackle age-related skin changes.
If you are looking for a gentler alternative to ingredients like retinoids or hydroquinone, then azelaic acid should be your best pick.
The Finacea Azelaic Acid Foam is a popular prescription-strength azelaic acid product.
6. Kojic acid
Kojic acid is a natural compound derived from various fungi. It has become a popular ingredient in many skincare products because it can target a range of complexion issues.
One common benefit of kojic acid is that it inhibits the production of melanin. This makes it an effective ingredient for lightening stubborn dark spots on the skin.
If you are dealing with uneven skin texture or dullness, kojic acid can be a fantastic addition to your skincare routine. It has gentle exfoliating properties. These properties enable it to shed dead skin cells, unclog pores, and reveal a smoother, more radiant complexion underneath.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has deemed kojic acid safe to use in cosmetics at concentrations of 1 percent. However, even at this 1 percent concentration level, the panel cautioned that some people may still experience side effects or risks from using products containing kojic acid.
You'll find kojic acid in a variety of skincare products, including serums, creams, and brightening masks. The Versed Weekend Glow Daily Brightening Facial Toner contains kojic acid, bearberry extract, azelaic acid, and alpha hydroxy acid, all of which will help boost your skin tone.
7. Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is not a true "acid" in the same sense as the others on this list. Rather, it is a naturally occurring polysaccharide that attracts and retains water to give your skin its much-needed hydration.
When you incorporate hyaluronic acid into your skincare routine, you'll notice a plump, dewy, and youthful-looking complexion. This is because this molecule can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. As a result, it quenches thirsty skin cells and prevents moisture loss.
The good thing about hyaluronic acid is that it works for all skin types, including sensitive skin, without the risk of irritation. It also smoothens the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles; this gives your skin a more radiant, rejuvenated look.
The H.A. Intensifier serum increases the skin's natural hyaluronic acid levels by 30%.
Other less-common face acids used in skincare
The following are lesser-known yet effective acids that can be great additions to your well-rounded skincare routine:
1. Ascorbic Acid: Also known as Vitamin C, ascorbic acid is a potent antioxidant acid that may help brighten the complexion, even out skin tone, and protect against environmental stressors. It's a powerhouse ingredient for treating signs of aging and promoting a radiant, youthful glow.
2. Ferulic Acid: This antioxidant acid works collaboratively with Vitamin C to strengthen its benefits and stability. It helps neutralize free radicals, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, and improves overall skin health.
3. Malic Acid: Derived from fruits like apples, malic acid is a mild alpha hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin and improves texture. It is often used to balance pH levels in cosmetic products.
4. Gluconolactone: This is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that provides mild exfoliation, gluconolactone is especially suitable for those with sensitive skin. It smoothens the skin’s texture without causing irritation or dryness.
5. Citric Acid: Found naturally in citrus fruits, citric acid is a versatile alpha hydroxy acid that can help brighten, even out skin tone, and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
As always, it's important to introduce new active ingredients slowly and monitor your skin's response.
Which face acids can you use together?
Jumping in headfirst and haphazardly combining products can potentially cause more harm than good. This is because some acids may interact in ways that irritate the skin. As a skincare rookie, here are some of the best face acid pairings you can try.
1. Vitamin C and ferulic acid
Vitamin C, in the form of ascorbic acid, is a powerful antioxidant that helps neutralize harmful free radicals to protect your skin from environmental stressors like pollution and UV damage. Vitamin C doesn't just shield your skin; it also aids in collagen production, which is essential for maintaining firm skin.
The challenge with using vitamin C, however, is that it can be quite unstable, especially when exposed to light and air. This is where ferulic acid comes in. Ferulic acid is another potent antioxidant that has an incredible ability to stabilize and enhance the benefits of vitamin C.
When you use vitamin C and ferulic acid together, the ferulic acid helps to protect vitamin C from oxidation and allows it to remain more stable and effective for longer. This means you get to maximize the brightening, age-defying, and skin-protecting powers of vitamin C for an extended period.
2. Vitamin C and vitamin E
As a potent antioxidant, vitamin C neutralizes free radicals that can cause oxidative stress and accelerate the breakdown of collagen and elastin. This helps to minimize the formation of fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots.
Vitamin C also inhibits the overproduction of melanin, making it an effective solution for fading discoloration and achieving a more even, radiant glow.
Vitamin E, on the other hand, is a fat-soluble antioxidant that protects the skin's lipid barrier. It also has soothing and restorative properties that can calm inflammation and promote the healing of minor skin injuries.
A combination of vitamin C and vitamin E is advantageous for people with sun-damaged or environmentally stressed complexions. This duo shields the skin from further harm while also reversing visible signs of photoaging and restoring a youthful, vibrant glow.
3. Salicylic acid and azelaic acid
The combination of salicylic acid and azelaic acid is beneficial for people with oily, acne-prone skin. The salicylic acid decongests your pores and controls excess oil production, while the azelaic acid helps to calm inflammation and fade lingering blemish marks.
These two acids can also be beneficial for people with stubborn cases of rosacea or melasma, as the ingredients work together to improve overall skin clarity and radiance.
If you're looking to see a noticeable improvement in the appearance of your problematic skin, then it would be best to introduce a product containing both salicylic acid and azelaic acid into your skincare routine.
4. Glycolic acid and retinol
Glycolic acid is a powerful exfoliant that prepares the skin to better absorb retinol, a skin-renewing ingredient.
The benefits of the glycolic acid and retinol combination are great for people concerned with signs of premature aging, such as fine lines, wrinkles, uneven texture, and dullness. The glycolic acid resurfaces and refines the skin's appearance, while the retinol visibly plumps and firms the complexion.
A 2015 study suggests that the glycolic acid and retinol combo may help combat acne scarring.
How to choose the best face acid that suits your skin
Here are some tips for choosing the most suitable face acid for your skin:
1. Know your skin type and concerns
The first step to finding the most ideal face acid for your skin is understanding your skin type and the primary skin issues you would like to fix.
For example, people with oily or acne-prone skin may benefit more from beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid, as these ingredients penetrate the pores, unclog them, and help manage breakouts.
On the other hand, those with dry or mature skin may respond better to alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic or lactic acid, as these tend to be more effective at improving skin texture, reducing the appearance of fine lines, and enhancing overall radiance.
2. Start with lower concentrations
Most dermatologists advise starting slowly and working your way up when introducing a new face acid into your routine. This gradual approach allows your skin to adapt to the active ingredient and helps you assess your tolerance level.
Over time, if your skin responds well and you'd like stronger effects, you can then gradually increase the concentration of the acid.
3. Consider your skin’s sensitivity level
Not all skin types can tolerate the same level of potency or concentration of these active ingredients. Highly sensitive skin types, for instance, may be better off avoiding overly strong or harsh acids, as these may cause excessive irritation.
Stronger acids like retinoids, while effective for some, may be too much for people with darker skin or skin allergies. In such cases, it would be wiser to opt for gentler acid options, such as mandelic acid or azelaic acid, which tend to be less likely to cause adverse reactions.
In contrast, people with resilient, less sensitive skin may be able to tolerate and benefit from the use of higher-concentration acids. These people may find that acids like salicylic acid or lactic acid produce more noticeable results in terms of tackling skin issues like acne, uneven texture, or signs of aging.
4. Monitor your skin’s response
Pay close attention to how your complexion reacts. If you experience excessive redness, peeling, or dryness, be prepared to scale back the frequency or concentration of the acid in your routine. This level of attentiveness will help you find the face acid that offers the best benefits without compromising your skin's overall health.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Can you use hyaluronic acid with glycolic acid?
Is azelaic acid anti-aging?
How long should you leave glycolic acid on the face?
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