Face Acids: How To Use, Which Ones To Combine, Which Ones Ones Not Mix

Key takeaways:

• There are different face acids, each with a unique use case. For instance, glycolic acid is an effective exfoliator that improves texture, reduces signs of aging, and fades discoloration, but it can be drying for sensitive skin.
• You need to be cautious when combining different face acids, as some may interact in ways that irritate the skin.
• Always choose face acids based on your specific skin type and concerns. You can start by matching the acid to your skin type - oily acne-prone skin does better with BHAs like salicylic acid, while dry skin responds better to AHAs like glycolic acid.

Face acids are a group of active ingredients used in skin care products to exfoliate and improve skin texture, tone, and appearance. The two main types are alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs). 

AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid break down the bonds between skin cells to reveal a brighter, smoother complexion. BHAs like salicylic acid, on the other hand, are oil-soluble and excel at decongesting pores and treating blemishes. There are also other types of face acids, each with unique benefits for the skin.

Ready to learn how to incorporate face acids into your routine and to find out which combinations work well and which ones you'll want to avoid? Then keep scrolling!  

What are the Common face acids used in skincare?

If you're dealing with acne, hyperpigmentation, or signs of aging, there's likely an acid that can help. However, with so many options available, knowing which ones to incorporate into your routine can be challenging. Here's a rundown of the most common face acids used in skincare: 

Other less-common face acids used in skincare

The following are lesser-known yet effective acids that can be great additions to your well-rounded skincare routine:

1. Ascorbic Acid: Also known as Vitamin C, ascorbic acid is a potent antioxidant acid that may help brighten the complexion, even out skin tone, and protect against environmental stressors. It's a powerhouse ingredient for treating signs of aging and promoting a radiant, youthful glow.

2. Ferulic Acid: This antioxidant acid works collaboratively with Vitamin C to strengthen its benefits and stability. It helps neutralize free radicals, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, and improves overall skin health.

3. Malic Acid: Derived from fruits like apples, malic acid is a mild alpha hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin and improves texture. It is often used to balance pH levels in cosmetic products.

4. Gluconolactone: This is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that provides mild exfoliation, gluconolactone is especially suitable for those with sensitive skin. It smoothens the skin’s texture without causing irritation or dryness.

5. Citric Acid: Found naturally in citrus fruits, citric acid is a versatile alpha hydroxy acid that can help brighten, even out skin tone, and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

As always, it's important to introduce new active ingredients slowly and monitor your skin's response.

Which face acids can you use together?

Jumping in headfirst and haphazardly combining products can potentially cause more harm than good. This is because some acids may interact in ways that irritate the skin. As a skincare rookie, here are some of the best face acid pairings you can try.

1. Vitamin C and ferulic acid

Vitamin C, in the form of ascorbic acid, is a powerful antioxidant that helps neutralize harmful free radicals to protect your skin from environmental stressors like pollution and UV damage. Vitamin C doesn't just shield your skin; it also aids in collagen production, which is essential for maintaining firm skin.

The challenge with using vitamin C, however, is that it can be quite unstable, especially when exposed to light and air. This is where ferulic acid comes in. Ferulic acid is another potent antioxidant that has an incredible ability to stabilize and enhance the benefits of vitamin C.

When you use vitamin C and ferulic acid together, the ferulic acid helps to protect vitamin C from oxidation and allows it to remain more stable and effective for longer. This means you get to maximize the brightening, age-defying, and skin-protecting powers of vitamin C for an extended period.

2. Vitamin C and vitamin E

As a potent antioxidant, vitamin C neutralizes free radicals that can cause oxidative stress and accelerate the breakdown of collagen and elastin. This helps to minimize the formation of fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots.

Vitamin C also inhibits the overproduction of melanin, making it an effective solution for fading discoloration and achieving a more even, radiant glow.

Vitamin E, on the other hand, is a fat-soluble antioxidant that protects the skin's lipid barrier. It also has soothing and restorative properties that can calm inflammation and promote the healing of minor skin injuries.

A combination of vitamin C and vitamin E is advantageous for people with sun-damaged or environmentally stressed complexions. This duo shields the skin from further harm while also reversing visible signs of photoaging and restoring a youthful, vibrant glow.

3. Salicylic acid and azelaic acid

The combination of salicylic acid and azelaic acid is beneficial for people with oily, acne-prone skin. The salicylic acid decongests your pores and controls excess oil production, while the azelaic acid helps to calm inflammation and fade lingering blemish marks. 

These two acids can also be beneficial for people with stubborn cases of rosacea or melasma, as the ingredients work together to improve overall skin clarity and radiance.

If you're looking to see a noticeable improvement in the appearance of your problematic skin, then it would be best to introduce a product containing both salicylic acid and azelaic acid into your skincare routine.

4. Glycolic acid and retinol

Glycolic acid is a powerful exfoliant that prepares the skin to better absorb retinol, a skin-renewing ingredient.

The benefits of the glycolic acid and retinol combination are great for people concerned with signs of premature aging, such as fine lines, wrinkles, uneven texture, and dullness. The glycolic acid resurfaces and refines the skin's appearance, while the retinol visibly plumps and firms the complexion.

A 2015 study suggests that the glycolic acid and retinol combo may help combat acne scarring.

How to choose the best face acid that suits your skin

Here are some tips for choosing the most suitable face acid for your skin:

1. Know your skin type and concerns

The first step to finding the most ideal face acid for your skin is understanding your skin type and the primary skin issues you would like to fix.

For example, people with oily or acne-prone skin may benefit more from beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid, as these ingredients penetrate the pores, unclog them, and help manage breakouts.

On the other hand, those with dry or mature skin may respond better to alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic or lactic acid, as these tend to be more effective at improving skin texture, reducing the appearance of fine lines, and enhancing overall radiance.

2. Start with lower concentrations

Most dermatologists advise starting slowly and working your way up when introducing a new face acid into your routine. This gradual approach allows your skin to adapt to the active ingredient and helps you assess your tolerance level. 

Over time, if your skin responds well and you'd like stronger effects, you can then gradually increase the concentration of the acid. 

3. Consider your skin’s sensitivity level

Not all skin types can tolerate the same level of potency or concentration of these active ingredients. Highly sensitive skin types, for instance, may be better off avoiding overly strong or harsh acids, as these may cause excessive irritation. 

Stronger acids like retinoids, while effective for some, may be too much for people with darker skin or skin allergies. In such cases, it would be wiser to opt for gentler acid options, such as mandelic acid or azelaic acid, which tend to be less likely to cause adverse reactions.

In contrast, people with resilient, less sensitive skin may be able to tolerate and benefit from the use of higher-concentration acids. These people may find that acids like salicylic acid or lactic acid produce more noticeable results in terms of tackling skin issues like acne, uneven texture, or signs of aging. 

4. Monitor your skin’s response

Pay close attention to how your complexion reacts. If you experience excessive redness, peeling, or dryness, be prepared to scale back the frequency or concentration of the acid in your routine. This level of attentiveness will help you find the face acid that offers the best benefits without compromising your skin's overall health.